spiritlessly Wes Gordon described his 1990s nostalgic collection as an exploration of maintaining femininity, energy, confidence, and wit in a more streamlined and linear cut. The show took place on the ground floor of the Renzo Piano-designed Whitney Museum, setting the tone for a sleek interpretation of the brand’s romantic codes.
Salonta Gordon focused on removing unnecessary details and emphasizing practical pieces. The collection opened with a classic black pencil skirt paired with a white cotton shirt, reminiscent of Carolina and Carolyn, and completed with kitten-heel slingbacks. Elongated silk blazers tied to the side over slips exuded a sense of ’90s ease, while a strapless black silk top and wide-leg pants set showcased effortless chic.
Herrera also embraced the trend of hot pants, with Gordon presenting a lavender floral knit version accompanied by a matching cardigan. Additionally, he incorporated transparency by featuring a shimmering black embroidered lace pencil skirt with black briefs, paired with a prim lilac twin set and flat shoes.
As expected, party dresses played a significant role in the Herrera collection. However, this season, embellishments took a backseat to focus on form. One standout piece was a black and lavender stripe micro pleated tulle ballgown that elegantly fanned out like a beach umbrella. Bustier dresses with micro pleated tulle cage skirts also made a statement. For eveningwear, column gowns and pencil skirt and bustier sets were offered as options.
It may seem contradictory to pare back the extravagant elements associated with the Herrera brand, known for its ruffles and roses. However, Carolina Herrera herself has always embodied sharpness and discipline in her personal style, which was evident as she sat in the front row during the show, perfectly put together.
To conclude the collection, Gordon revisited the crisp cotton shirt from the beginning, this time in black, paired with a silver pencil skirt adorned with floral arranged paillette embroidery. The use of silver throughout the collection echoed a broader trend seen on New York runways, perhaps influenced by Beyoncé’s affinity for chrome.
It’s worth noting that Herrera, like many other fashion brands, created a custom bodysuit for Beyoncé to wear during her “Renaissance World Tour” this summer, showcasing the brand’s connection with music and popular culture.
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Photography credits: Victoria Bruno Studios