MI Legatt’s collection for Official Rebrand’s AW20 collection for NYFW brought gender identity to the sartorial conversation, with statement streetwear looks created entirely from discarded textiles to express fluidity of resources as well as gender and sexuality.
‘What is a man’ explores themes within traditional menswear and turns them on their side, showing that the very concepts of “men” and “menswear” are both unstable and arbitrary. Challenging the notion that masculinity is inherently a fixed identity is what Leggatt set out to do with this collection, adding a renewed beauty to discarded textiles through strategic deconstruction, appliqué, old trims, and draping to rebrand these fabrics destines for landfill.
The label gives value to deadstock and vintage pieces to facilitate a fluid transformation from unwanted materials into something uniquely beautiful. Leggatt challenges societal expectations of masculinity through pieces that defy gender norms; the concept behind Original Rebrand is that discarded clothing can be revoked or “rebranded” in an artistic format, to remove the original gender associations.
‘What is a man’ incorporates playful elements with bold, semi-abstract graphics painted on dungaree dresses in upcycled cotton twill, strategic ruching, draped deconstructed wrap skirts, and monochromic statement in suiting fabrics for AW20. A satin camisole embellished with Leggatt’s own illustrations was paired with decorative statement sleeves and painted taffeta skirt, and we saw and innovative use of straps and buckles throughout the collection.
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