Words by Victoria Bruno
Photography by Ekaterina Yaltykova
From “social avoidance” to love, Jimi Vain’s collection for Fall/Winter 2024 was a dystopic dream of multi-cultural inspirations and contemporary silhouettes with a dash of optimism. On January 30th, 2024, Helsinki-based label, VAIN showed their “Married to the VAIN” collection at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Debuting items featured in the “VAIN Upcycled” product line, the label incorporates a wide range of deadstock materials similar to their Mcdonalds collaboration in 2022.
For those unfamiliar with VAIN, the label was founded by artist and Creative Director Jimi Vain and CEO Roope Reinola. VAIN’s FW23 debut collection ’02’ was presented at Pitti Uomo 103 in January 2023. Although a young label, VAIN has carved out their own path to fashion. With witty commentary and subtle references, the brand’s contemporary approach to traditional story telling evokes a unique and refreshing take on the new digital era of artistry. Fixated on technocracy and it’s imposing threat to human connection, the brand frequently explores community through shared history and shared experiences, conveyed through up-cycling and re-imagining banal items like ID bracelets, lanyards, and safety pins. In their own words, “VAIN is all about love”.
VAIN’s Copenhagen Fashion Week runway presentation was set in a dimly lit room of “The Plant”, set with an all black backdrop. Their soundscape was a commissioned EP entitled From Hel With Love. VAIN has a personal connection to the music label and creative collective, Below0. The show begins with a three minute musical introduction. A fusion of tailored office wear and relaxed street wear dominates this season’s collection. This motif alludes to the enmeshment of our work and personal lives. “Hard work fueled by pure passion is a beautiful thing”, the label states. The spirit of this collection not only reflects the label’s tongue-in-cheek commentary on the absurd rat race of fashion, but a person’s enduring passion consuming them regardless of what they are doing in their every day life. This commitment is solidified through the use of a wedding ring. They proclaim their labor of love, celebrating the journey of the brand through this collection.
With work life being the broader theme of the show, this collection features a variety of inspirations including the the Helsinki lifestyle, the Japanese work culture and 2010s Atlanta trap music, an era where artists would release 3-4 mixtapes per year while glamorizing work ethic as a labor of love.
Draw string trench coats, jump suits, and loose fitted pants dominated this collection. These genderless items evoke an all inclusive message that anyone can live this life of relentless passion and occupation. VAIN plays with the color red for the first time. It appears that VAIN is attempting to make even the most sleekly tailored pieces into versatile clothing, further exploring the imbalance of work and life. VAIN re-visits their love for experimental belt styling, turning their V-3 belt into a harness over an adjustable drawstring sweater and they re-imagined sleeves as tails in other looks to give new meaning to a “day to night look”. The show ended with a nod to the Y2K era. Awhite A-line drawstring adjustable skirt opened in the front, overlayed a pair of white loose pleated wide leg pants. Paired with a transparent white tank top and trendy elbow-length gloves, this look cohesivelyreinforces their message of sharing experiences with the next generation: in order to look forward, we must look back at who and what created us.
Styling: @jimivain , @user666666777_2
Photographer: @jamescochranephoto
Make-Up: @jenny_jansson
Hair: @lindamandal
Casting Director: @niklaskervinen @thelaborscouting
PR: @juni_communication
Sound Design: @below0.eu @glayden_0 @nikodemus_0 @interalia_0 @salmenkal