Erdem Moralioglu SS21 collection was inspired by the novel The Volcano Lover. The novel by Susan Sontag, published in 1992 set largely in Naples, it focuses upon Emma Hamilton, her marriage to Sir William Hamilton, the scandal relating to her affair with Lord Nelson, her abandonment, and her descent into poverty.
The collection was stunning and set around a green forest with pieces that referenced Grecian nymph shift dresses yet with puff-sleeved empire silhouette. The embroidered muslin and organza dresses and 18th-century floral jacquard numbers were created to give the effect of “old”. Moralioglu created the effect of Nelson’s admiral jackets and grosgrain regalia, along with opera coats that transitioned into khaki utility-wear.
